Learn to stitch the indian sari blouse used for sari costume. The method to stitch a blouse is very easy.
The pattern is useful in stitching a cut blouse.
Lets use a readymade measurement to stitch the blouse (refer above diagram). I have used measurements in centimeter, You can do it with inch measurement.
* chest = 91 cm
* full length = 38 cm
* Across back = 35 cm
* sleeve length = 25 cm
* A - B = full length = 38 cm
* A-C = arm hole = (chest/4)-4 = (91-4)/4 = 18.7 cm
* C-D = chest loose = (chest/4)+2.5 = (91/4)+2.5 = 25.2 cm
* A-I = front part = chest/3 = 91/3 = 30.3cm
* A-E = shoulder = AB/2 = 35/2 = 17.5 cm
* A-F = Neck Breadth = (chest/12)+1.5 = 9 cm
* A-H = Front Neck = chest/8 = 11.3 cm
* K-B = patti part = full length-front part=7.7 cm
PATTI PART (K-B part in the above diagram)
* A-C = full length = 11 cm
* A-B = patti width
* A-B = sleeve length = (chest/4)+2.5
* A-C = sleeve width = (chest/4)+2.5
* E-D = (chest/4-4)
Now let's see how to stitch the sari blouse. Before going to stitch the real material , we'll draw the stitching pattern. I have used chart paper to draw the stitching pattern. If u want to stitch a blouse of your size, take a sample blouse you already have and take the measurements using inch tape. It is nessesary to draw stitching patterns for both front and back side .
BACK PART PATTERN
The curve on the right is the arm hole while the other curve is neck.
FRONT PART PATTERN
First draw a pattern same as the back side then from the top measure 12 inch and draw a straight line. You can see a straight line drawn at a distance of 12 inch from the shoulder. The distance can vary from 12 to 13 inch based on the breast size . A normal women can draw a line at distance of 12" else 13".
Next measure 1/2 inch from the horizontal line and mark it. Likewise measure 1/2 inch above the horizontal line on both the extremes. Now as shown in the above diagram draw a neat curve along the points . I've drawn the curve in blue colour. Next step is to cut along the blue line like the one below. The image below shows the front and the back part pattern together.
Front part is cut into 2 parts. In the first part we have to sew darts then attach the patti part(2nd part) to the front piece.
In the above image i've drawn the darts . Those are the places where you have to sew darts.Now let's see how to sew darts using the cloth. Then take the material to stitch blouse. Below is the material i have used. Fold the cloth to the exact breadth size of the pattern once as shown in the figure . Then mark the edges with marking chalk. Next carefully cut the edges without disturbing them. Make sure the neck part is placed on the folded side.
After unfolding you can see both sides of the blouse.
Then 2 small darts have to stitched at the back part straight to the shoulders.
Then the main three darts have to be stitched carefully in the front part. Look at the stitching pattern diagram above for the three main darts. The dart stitched at the bottom should be bigger that the 2 darts at the left and right sides. Darts at the back part and front part are stitched.
Next to the front part , the patti part has to be stitched. After stitching the three main dots , the front part has to be stitched to the patti part. The patti part should have the remaining length so that it equals the back part.
Now the patti part is stitched to the main part. See to that both back and front parts are of same length. Then make sure you fold around the bottom line.
Next the front parts have to be joined to the back part. Just do that by stitching the shoulders correctly.
After the sleeve part is stitched, the neck crosspeice has to be stitched and then hooks have to be stitched. Finally we finish the complete blouse like this. Try and send your feedback.